Birds are chirping, the trees are green and the weather isn’t scaring people back inside. But all this hardly noticeable when someone is focusing on the perfection of that single sweet-smelling, juicy, sizzling, cut of beauty that is a T-bone.
Spring is in the air and so is smoke.
Barbecue, as much an American pastime as baseball or fast cars, can be a great way to entertain guests, spend a Saturday afternoon or just take up as a hobby. But don’t be fooled; it’s not as easy as it looks. It’s an art!
As every artist has a brush and canvas, backyard cooks do too — grills, charcoal and/or wood-chips, seasonings and of course, cuts of meat.
A common debate in the world of barbecue is gas versus charcoal.
“Gas is more convenient and a lot quicker versus the weight of charcoal,” said David Cowart, the store manager of Lowe’s. “But some people say charcoal adds more taste.”
Lloyd Young, a meat cutter at Winn Dixie and barbecue veteran of 10 years, said gas will cook the meat faster. It won’t cook thoroughly.
“Charcoal just cooks it all the way through,” he said with a nod and a grin.
Cowart did say that barbecuing with charcoal was cheaper than gas.
Another common path to take to the land of barbecue is by using a smoker.
“Smoke gives it that good, outside smoke taste,” Young said.
Henry Schexnayder IV, owner and operator of Porky’s Kick Butt Bar-B-Cue on Airline Highway, said when people smoke meat they should first rub it down with a seasoning — Schexnayder uses a dry rub, but others use a marinade or spices.
Then, they should soak the wood to keep the flame smoking instead of flaring up to burn the meat. Most people like the meat to be away from direct heat to let the smoke and air heat inside the barbecue pit to cook the meat, instead of a flame, Schexnayder said.
Smoking meat could take several hours depending on the cut and type of meat. Schexnayder said that he lets ribs smoke for five hours at 200 degrees Fahrenheit, the chicken for about 2 hours at 275 degrees.
Whatever the choice of heat, grills can be purchased at almost any outdoor retailer. For charcoal grills, Lowe’s sells tabletop grills for $30 and grills that can also smoke meat for $170. Gas grills, available in the currently most popular fashion of stainless steel, can range from $399 to $999, said Cowart.
Lowe’s also sells individual smokers for about $50.
But, if money is no object, Casual Creations, located at 13203 Perkins Road, offers what owner Bob Bucy calls “better quality grills.”
The first patio and fireplace store in Baton Rouge, Casual Creations offers ancient Japanese concept grills and various, brand-new gas grills with all the whistles and bells as well as accessories such as sauces, rubs, brushes, and an endless variety of condiments.
Bucy said the grills can run from $500 to $5000.
No matter what the style or size of your barbecue pit, remember that the city of Baton Rouge adopted the National Fire Protection Association fire prevention code that says all forms of barbecue — hibachi, gas, propane, charcoal, wood and other similar forms — is not allowed on balconies, under over-hangings or within 10 feet from buildings that house more than one or two families – apartments.
Chief of the Fire Prevention Bureau Ray Cutrer said that people can store the grills on their balconies and carry them outside, but if the grill is “used or kindled” the FPB can issue the owner a fine of up to $500 or a court appearance.
As for the type of fuel, Cowart recommends a large pack of Standard Kingsford charcoal for about $7 and hickory and mesquite chips — about $1.50 to $4 – to add a little bit more taste in the flame.
Cowart also advises owners not to burn charcoal in their gas pits.
The Barbecue Headquarters Web site — bbqhq.com, maintained by Sunbeam — suggests all owners keep the grill covered with a preferred felt-lined cover, to clean the pits periodically, store the grill indoors and the gas tank outside in constant shade, and never to smoke around a tank in case of a gas leak.
Any artist might say that it is important to have an adequate brush and canvas, but if it weren’t for the paint, nothing could be done.
Even more important than what you use to barbecue is what you barbecue!
Winn Dixie Meat Cutter Lloyd Young suggests beef spare ribs, New York strips, tenderloins — at least two inches — ($16 per pound), sir loin steaks ($5.99 per pound), ground chuck or round, and t-bones and rib eyes (9.99 per pound) “never fail.”
When asked what he looks for in a cut of meat to BBQ, Young said “I look at the thickness, how long it would take to cook. Thin ones are easier to cook.”
As for fat in the meat, Young said “the white in the meat is just grain. It keeps the meat from being dry. Meat with only a little fat is a harder. It has to be cooked just right.”
A new way to check the meat to see if it is “just right” without cutting it to pieces is to purchase a large, two-pronged fork with a built-in thermometer for about $12. The fork is inserted into the meat and a reading of “Rare,” “Medium Rare,” “Done,” or “Well- Done” is given immediately.
It can be very convenient to buy some meat and throw it on the grill, but to really impress the guests and sometimes themselves, many like to take hours of preparation before the meat even touches the grill.
Young said that some common types of marinade are made of seasoned oil or Tony Chachere’s Creole Seasoning and Italian salad dressing overnight. He said that some think the dressing locks the taste in and maybe even make the meat cook faster.
When asked how long the meat should be marinated, Young sternly said, “Overnight. Let the flavor soak in.”
Young also said that some people like to mix beer, hot sauce, mustard, honey, and sugar together to create a great, original marinade. Then, if the meat needs even more flavor after all this, barbecue sauces like KC Masterpiece’s Mesquite or Lawry’s Caribbean Jerk are very popular.
To accompany the finished masterpiece, Young recommended potato salad, mac and cheese, garlic bread, and pork and beans.
When asked how long he’s been barbecuing, Young said for about 10 years, as he nodded in remembrance.
Then he smiled and said, “But you gotta burn before you can cook.”
But if living circumstances — or laziness – prohibit personal artwork on a grill, Baton Rouge is home to several classic barbecue joints.
One such place is Porky’s Kick Butt Bar-B-Cue on Airline Highway past Highway 427.
As we sat at the bar with music in the background, owner Henry Schexnayder IV said it’s a nice, family-owned and operated business – very laid back.
“We’re not trying to make a killing, we just want to make good food,” Schexnayder said. “And make the food taste good to where people will be coming back.”
He said the chicken and sausage with the typical baked beans and potato salad is $7.50, ribs plus sides are $8.75 and beer is a buck.
Porky’s uses a personal recipe for their rub and tomato-based sauce, which Schexnayder described as sweet, different from other barbecue sauces.
Another Baton Rouge local is Podnuh’s Bar-B-Cue, located at 2648 Sherwood Forest Blvd.
“It’s just like being at home,” said Assistant Manager Brian Washington as he looked across the red and white checkered table cloths covering all the tables.
“We try to treat the customers like family, if it wasn’t for them, there wouldn’t be a Podnuh’s,” he said.
Washington said that the more popular orders are ribs ($6.99), chicken ($5.99), or a two meat plate ($6.99) with pork, beef brisket and what he called “the best sausage in town.”
“It’s the way we cook it, everything is pretty much made and done here,” Washington said about the particular taste of Podnuh’s meat and side orders. “No coals; no lighter fluid, straight wood for a long, slow cook. We also make our own barbecue sauce, marinade and base.”
Hot Off the Grill
April 22, 2004

Hot Off the Grill