With Torchy’s already here, do we really need another overpriced, gentrified taco place?
Fuego Tortilla Grill held its grand opening this past Tuesday for its new location on West Lee Drive in Baton Rouge. Based in Texas, this Tex-Mex chain has recently expanded into Arkansas and now Louisiana.
There is no doubt in my mind that people were looking forward to this. When I drove up to the restaurant on opening night, I had to wait for a few minutes before I could even make it into the parking lot. Not only was the drive-thru line backed up outside the entrance, but every parking spot was taken save for two or three.
I will try to give it the benefit of the doubt due to this, but that can only go so far.
The inside was just as busy as the outside led me to believe. Hundreds of college students flooded the interior, leaving me lucky to have found somewhere to sit.
There is a serious lack of any kind of decoration or good atmosphere at Fuego. If you have been to any modern Tex-Mex chain, you have been to this one. A gray and white color palette permeates the walls, with only a splash of red or blue here and there.
The plague of millennial gray aesthetics is rampant. I am begging interior designers to do anything else. There is a mural on the walls in front of the bathrooms, but it is mostly hidden away from view. The only break in the blank walls in the main room is a neon sign by the DIY salsa bar. I do appreciate this bar’s existence, but it could have looked so much more interesting.
I cannot take too many points off for service just for how busy it was. Even with that level of chaos, it was still decent. I waited about 35 minutes for my food, but considering how busy it was, that is not bad.
There is almost never fantastic service in a restaurant such as this because it is a walk up and order place. The people behind the corner were nice enough and helpful. When the cooks got overwhelmed with orders, there was an employee out the door who kindly told people they were not taking any more orders.
Not much to write home about, but it could have been much worse.
Food is where Fuego frankly falters.
Have you been to Torchy’s? Have you been to Barracuda? Then you have been here. You’re welcome, I just saved you $7. Fourteen dollars if you get two tacos.
There is simply no imagination to be found in this menu. It features the common Tex-Mex chain quirky taco names you would come to expect. Yet, I find nothing that makes the food unique.
The tacos I ate are two of the ones noted as most popular on the menu: El Presidente and Dr Pepper Cowboy. When you bite down into one, no flavors truly stand on their own. Each ingredient congeals together so much you would think there is only one.
El Presidente is a chicken taco featuring bacon, pico de gallo, fried avocado, jack cheese and chipotle ranch on a flour tortilla. Good luck trying to taste anything other than that ranch though. The chicken is well cooked and has a nice spice to it, but it unfortunately gets drowned out.
What the taco needs is a break up of savory rich flavors with something fresh. However, the pico is almost nonexistent. Honestly, until I looked back at the ingredients, I forgot there was any on there. Not to mention the perfect ingredient for adding a healthy twist — the avocado is now deep fried. It just gets lost in the mush of everything else.
The Dr Pepper Cowboy runs into similar problems at the last one. What you will find in this taco is smoked brisket, grilled onions, chipotle cream corn, jack cheese and a Dr Pepper barbecue sauce.
You would think this sauce would be a bit more unique; however, if I had not been told it was made with Dr Pepper I would assume it was just a bit too sweet barbecue sauce. It is unfortunately a majority of the flavor you will get, along with a fountain of grease. Seriously, my taco should not be soggy when I pick it up.
I will admit that this one has a leg up over the El Presidente because of the chipotle cream corn. The corn is prominent enough to add a fresh crispness to the meal.
Keep in mind that this place has just opened, so maybe some of my problems could be ironed out over time. Not to mention it is a commercial-leaning chain. Maybe higher quality food is not the goal here.
This brings to light the biggest problem here that I am afraid cannot be so easily fixed
Tex-Mex chains are a dime a dozen. Like I said earlier, if you have been to Torchy’s, you have been to Fuego. These chains erode down what should be uniquely delicious and simple food.
Not much is needed to make a good taco. The presentation at Fuego gives you a giant tortilla with random ingredients just slapped on to give the air of complexity or a unique spin. There is no care or history to this. It is a dilution of personality or flair. This is evident not only in the food but the wider presentation of the restaurant. It is not even good Tex-Mex.
If you are the kind of person who does not care much for all of that, then by all means this restaurant is for you. If your favorite show is “Stranger Things,” your favorite film is from the Marvel Cinematic Universe or your top artist on your Wrapped was Morgan Wallen, this homogenization of culture and taste is right up your alley.
This comes off as harsh. There is nothing legitimately wrong with enjoying Fuego, Torchy’s or any of that art I mentioned. If you do, by all means keep going for it.
Things made with more mass appeal have an audience for a reason. It is not a crime to like anything of that ilk. I, myself, enjoy most of the Marvel movies or a patty melt from Whataburger.
The problem arises when this acceptance is given as a sign to forgo quality. It is not just food — it is everything. As time goes on, excuses are made as less and less thought is put into how what we consume is made.
One should balance out their palette, go for something that will satisfy you a lot better. We have enough restaurants like Fuego. Check out a smaller business with better food with a more reasonable price.
If you feel so inclined, Fuego Tortilla Grill’s hours are available on its website.
